RAISING THE STOCK DOG PUPPY
The number one question that has been asked, "what do I do with my puppy until he’s ready to put on stock"? The puppy should NOT be left in a kennel until he’s old enough to be put on livestock, which some think is usually around a year old. A puppy will tell you what age he’s ready to be on stock. The most important thing you can do with and for your puppy, is to BE WITH HIM. Don’t ignore him, do things with him, play with him, pet him, teach him things and be a good master. Despite the old wives tales, these things will not ruin a stock dog.

There are lots of things a person can do with their new puppy before he is mentally and physically ready to start formally on livestock. Puppies, like children, are not born with the knowledge of knowing what to do, how to act and what is permissible by a human. Good manners must be taught to the puppy.

To begin with, your puppy doesn't know the difference between good and bad habits. He only does what instinct tells him to do. It is up to his new owner to teach him what they consider good habits. Good habits will vary with each owners idea of what they want their puppy to do. Things to teach your puppy should include: housebreaking, leash training, learning to travel in a car, being sociable with new people and manners. Other training would be for herding stock or dog sports events, therapy or rescue to name a few. Basic training is teaching him to come when called, sit, stay, down, off, and heel. You can also housebreak and crate train him. You shouldn't do any heavy duty obedience training until the puppy is about 6 months of age. Beginning training sessions should be gentle, but firm. After all, puppies are babies technically, until they are a year old. Go slow and don't cause your puppy to hate being trained. Puppies are allowed to make mistakes. Try to name your puppy a simple one or two syllable name. If his name to too complicated it may take longer to train him to know it. His name is used to be an attention getter. When you call his name it should make him stop and look at you for further instructions.


JUMPING UP
"My dog keeps jumping up on me". This is probably the number one complaint of many dog owners. This "jumping-up" behavior has been taught to the puppy since he was very young. As the pup is growing, he is absolutely the cutest thing alive ... and there is no way to avoid picking him up and snuggling. There is nothing wrong with picking up your pup and loving on him. Unfortunately, this also teaches him that EVERYTIME he puts his feet on you, you are going to pick him up. Over and over, as he is maturing this "jumping-up" behavior is repetitiously repeated. How is he supposed to know that there is a magical age/height/weight when he is suddenly no longer allowed to display this behavior? He doesn't. All he knows is that he's been able to "ask" to be picked up, by jumping up on his owner, and getting what he wants. Now suddenly, his owner is slapping him, kicking him, yelling at him, .... this does nothing but confuse and make the dog fearful.

The ways we've helped to stop this behavior before it begins is to always sit down (on the ground) and pet the puppies. Or, scoop the puppy into a sit, wait a few seconds with his butt on the ground, then pick him up (from the sit). The pup is not picked up when he is standing up on us and scratching on our legs.


TEACHING THE "SIT" COMMAND

The is very easy to teach with a piece of food. Have your pup in front of you and let him smell the food (this works better if he is hungry) hold it over his head and start to move it past his head towards the shoulder area, as this is done he will be forced to sit in order to keep his eye on the food. As soon as his rump is on the floor, quickly give him the food and praise him. The next time use the command sit so he will hear the command with the action of the sit. You don't need to push his rump down or force him in any way. After he has the idea, you can then practice with him to your left side and your right side, facing the same direction as you are, so you can start the foundation training of automatic sitting and heeling.

This command is useful because as soon as you even think the puppy is going to jump-up on you, give him the "sit" command. Always, stressed - ALWAYS, make training fun and positive. Remember to praise your puppy for doing good. Do not swat or hit your puppy, because he simply is not born into this world knowing good from bad, teaching manners is up to you. After he is solid on his sit command, slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes.

TEACHING A PUPPY HIS NAME

Say the puppy’s name to him often, smiling when he looks at you. If he won't look at you, make a noise to get his attention. When he looks at you, say his name and praise him. Always praise in a high pitched voice, as this means "GOOD/FUN" in dog language. The tone of your voice is very important to your training. As already mentioned a higher pitched voice is the same as saying " PLAYTIME " to a dog. It excites them and makes them happy. A monotone voice has a calming effect on a dog and settles them down. A low voice is the same as a growl to a dog. So when the puppy has done something you don't approve of, use a low voice. Also, the way you look at a puppy or a dog either says "welcome or trouble" to them. When you are happy with your puppy, look in his eyes with a happy look. When disapproving, use a cold stare and don't break eye contact. Training your puppy will be much simpler using "their" form of communication. Once the language barrier is broken you won't have any trouble training your puppy.

TEACHING THE RECALL OR "COME" COMMAND

This is a very important command to teach your pup. It doesn't matter what word you use as long as you use the same word to avoid confusion. You may use come, here, or the working dog command of "that'll do".

Decide which word will be most comfortable to use. Call your puppy’s name to get his attention, then every time you feed your puppy, use the recall command (or if you choose, a whistle). We use a whistle command, starting the first day the puppies start eating and continuing into adulthood. A whistle recall has proven to work best for us. Make sure that you use the same word or whistle every time. Stress this to other members of the family also, this is to avoid confusion.

Another way to teach the recall command is to begin with your puppy fresh and playful. He needs to have his collar and leash on (IF he is leash trained). It is good to have a few treats at first. Start with saying your puppy's name in a happy higher pitched voice and then the come command. If your puppy comes to you, as he is coming to you back up quickly and then after a few steps, stop quickly give him a treat and lots of praise. If your puppy doesn't come, then reel him in gently and give the treat and praise, make this a fun time. Keep repeating this exercise until your puppy understands what you want him to do. Dogs learn by repetition. Always stop on a positive note and don't over train a very young pup by training for more than five or ten minutes at first.

< Never, ever, call a pup/dog to you to punish him, this will only cause him to want to avoid you.>

TEACHING LEASH TRAINING

Starting a young pup on " leash training ". Most working dog trainers just tie/chain the puppy up to get him used to the leash. This is very stressful for a young pup and really not necessary. Any training session should be very positive, fun and not stressful. You never want the puppy to be afraid of you or the training session. You never want a puppy/dog dreading whatever you are trying to teach him.

First you must get a flat buckle collar that fits your pup. It should be tight enough not to slip over his head, but not so tight as to choke him. Now you can use a 3 - 4 foot light rope or nylon leash and attach it to the collar. Simply allow the pup to get use to it by letting him drag it around for a day or two under supervision. When the pup doesn't seem to pay attention to the leash, then it is time to get him use to actually go with the leash and you. It is best done when the pup is a bit hungry. Take hold of the leash and have some food in your hand...hold the food just out in front of his nose and start walking keeping the food just out in front so he will get the idea to go with you. You can make kissing sounds as you are walking. Say the command" heel" so he will be able to associate the action with the command. Make it fun and use your higher pitched voice to encourage the pup to want to participate. There will be times when he will sit back and throw a fit. Don't give in to these tantrums. Just give him time and soon he will be going with you for a walk. When he gets a bit older you can teach him the proper heel position, which is on your left side with his shoulder in line with your leg. It is always good to teach the heel on both sides of you, for the working dog. You shouldn't allow a dog to pull you along and take you where where he wants go. This puts him in control and you should be the master over him. He will respect you more if you stay in the ALPHA or place of authority over him. After he is solid on his leash (not pulling or refusing), slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes. Be sure and not reward him for throwing a tantrum or pulling back. Only give him a treat or praise when he does what you want him to do. Remember be POSITIVE!

TEACHING THE DOWN COMMAND

Training the " down or lie down " command. This really is very easy to teach, there are many ways to teach it, but I believe this to be the best and quickest way for the pup to learn without ever forcing him. It will be his idea and so he will not be forced to learn. Anytime you can allow a pup to think for its self, the pup will retain it better and not resent the training .

First, have the pup sit. Take a small piece of treat in your hand, close your hand so the pup can't get to it. Let the pup smell it so he knows it is there. Next, slowly bring your hand to the ground right in front of him. He should be trying to get to the treat, in the process of him trying to get to the treat, his body will start to come down just as if his was trying to get something from under a couch or low ledge. While he’s trying to get the treat, tell him the command "down or lie down", which ever one you wish to use. When he lays down all the way, give him the treat. Now, if he just won't lie down this way, then you sit on the ground and put your knees up so there is a tunnel. Put him on one side of you and then on the other side you would have the treat. He needs to be coaxed through the tunnel and in the process of trying to creep under, his body goes in the down position. This way he will not be able to cheat. It is amazing how fast a pup will learn this . Repeat often and use lots of praise to encourage him. This command is also very useful in a dog that likes to jump-up on someone. When you see that he is fixing to jump-up, give him the down command. After he is solid on his down, slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes.


DIFFERENT GROWTH STAGES:

Puppies experience different growth stages throughout their life. They are constantly looking to explore and learn about "their" world. The information below is a guideline of stages puppies go through regardless of breed. I hope this information benefits someone in raising a better pup. It really does make a difference if you understand these stages and learn to deal with them correctly. If not, you could imprint fears on your puppy that could never be changed as the puppy matures.


My comments about this article are in red.

http://www.doberman.org/articles/puppy.htm

Birth to Seven weeks ( 0 - 49 days )
Socialization Period ( 7 - 12 weeks )
Fear Imprint Period ( 8 - 11 weeks )
Seniority Classification Period ( 12 - 16 weeks )
Flight Instinct Period ( 4 - 8 months )
Second Fear Imprint Period ( 6 - 14 months )
Maturity ( 1 - 4 years )


*This article is Thanks to:

Sue St. Gelais
Hundmeister Reg'd Dobermans
Ontario Canada

Puppyhood and Beyond Puppies are growing animals. When they are young, they learn much and what is learned has a lasting impact. Even sexual patterns, which emerge as puppies mature, can be affected by early experience. All dogs, regardless of breed, pass through various stages as they grow and develop, physically, mentally, and psychologically. Psychologists use the term critical period to describe a specific time in a dog's life when certain experiences have a lasting effect upon their psychological development. Understanding these critical periods and a dog's stages of development will better help you to understand your dog's behavior and how to handle him during these special times. Additionally, puppies benefit greatly when their owners understand their development.

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks)

During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age. [**At three weeks of age, we start feeding our puppies. This is the time we start using a whistle to teach a recall to the puppies. Every time I feed them, I whistle and bang their stainless steel pan. They learn to come when I whistle and that loud noises mean something good is fixing to happen].

Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks)

It is at this age that rapid learning occurs. At seven weeks, puppies can learn and what they learn will have a lasting impact. Everything he comes in contact with will make a lasting impression upon him as it never will again. Not only will he learn, but, he will learn whether he is taught or not. Though he has a short attention span, what things he learns are learned permanently and resistant to change. Therefore, owners need to be careful about what their puppies are learning at this time. Your puppy is very anxious to learn how you want him to behave and react, and he needs to be shown what is expected of him in his new role as your pet. [**This is a critical time in the puppy’s life. You can take the puppy with you around livestock, but it is paramount that you do not let the puppy get hurt or frightened. It could be devastating to him at this age. He is wanting to learn, just take extreme care and make sure he is always safe when he’s with you]. There are rules you will expect your puppy to obey. Establish those rules NOW while behaviors are easy to establish. For instance, how your pet interacts with you is determined during puppyhood. What he does now is what he will likely do later. So, don't allow your puppy to do things which will be unacceptable when he becomes a dog. During this time, you and your puppy will also begin to know and understand each other. You will get to know about your puppy's particular temperament and personality - whether he is strong-willed or eager to please, gentle or rambunctious, shy or outgoing, and just what else makes him the endearing individual that he is. For the puppy, this is both an exciting and somewhat confusing time. There is a whole new world of things to learn about and all sorts of new experiences to digest. Remember that the environments you put your puppy in are more complex than those he would encounter naturally. Puppies must now learn a new set of rules. He needs to know learn how to interact with humans and other animals who live with them. Puppies must adapt to the patterns and tenor of their new homes. All of these experiences and the behaviors which accompany them, must be learned. Because you will impose such important demands on your puppy, you must help him to make the transition into the human environment. You need to lay a groundwork for a trusting, happy mutually satisfying relationship. Keep in mind that puppies are less likely to broaden their experiences if they are insecure. In natural environments, puppies approach new things cautiously. By giving your puppy brief, repeated experiences in new situations, you give him a chance to become familiar. If you don't expose your puppy to a variety of situations and new environments, inappropriate ways to adapt may be learned.

During the Socialization period, there is a fear imprint period from 8 - 11 weeks.

During this time, any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences will have a more lasting impact on your pup than they would if they occurred at any other time. An unpleasant trip to the veterinarian, for instance, at this time could forever make your dog apprehensive about vets. To avoid this, take some treats and a toy with you. While you wait, play with your puppy and offer him treats. Have your vet give your puppy treats along with lots of praise and petting before and after the examination. Avoid elective surgeries, such as ear-cropping and hernia repair during this time. In general, avoid stressful situations. Remember, dogs are social animals. To become acceptable companions, they need to interact with you, your family, and other people and dogs during the Socialization Period. Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences with people and dogs. Therefore, you need to socialize and teach your puppy how to interact with people and other dogs in a positive, non-punitive manner. You should gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments, and people. But, care must be taken in socializing your puppy with other dogs or in areas where many "unknown" dogs frequent, prior to the time that your dog has had three of its booster vaccinations against contagious diseases. Shopping centers, parks, and playgrounds are good places to expose him. [**I disagree with taking a puppy to places where other dogs may have been because, the puppy is not immune to puppyhood diseases at this point in his life. I would take him places on the farm/ranch, in the pasture, around the pens, tractors and other equipment and livestock]. Begin by taking your puppy when there are few distractions. Give him time to get used to new places. Make sure he is secure. If you have children that visit only occasionally, have your puppy meet children as often as you can. If you live alone, make an effort to have friends visit you, especially members of the opposite sex so that your dog will become accustomed to them. If you plan on taking your dog to dog shows or using your dog in a breeding program, get him around other dogs. If you plan to travel with your dog, get him accustomed to riding in the car. Take him for brief rides, at first. Go someplace fun. Remember, if new experiences are overwhelming or negative, the results could be traumatic.

Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)

It is during this critical period that your dog will begin to test you to see who the pack leader is going to be. He'll begin to bite you, in play or as a real challenge to your authority. Such behavior is natural in the pack and not necessarily undesirable. What is undesirable is an inappropriate response on your part. It is important, at this stage, that you establish your position as pack leader, and not just another sibling. Other behaviors, such as grabbing at the leash, will be observed, and all are attempts to dominate you. Biting, in particular though, should always be discouraged. [**Personally, I would not discourage nipping. I would simply teach him, while using a toy or a piece of rope, a "take hold" command and a "release" command. Gripping (biting) will be needed later in his development while working livestock]. Therefore, you should not wrestle or play tug of war. Such play is aggressive-inducing. What you see as a fun game may be perceived by your dog as a situation in which he has been allowed to dominate. Wrestling, of course, communicates to your puppy that he is allowed to bite you. Tug of war sets you up in a dominance confrontation over an object. He learns that he can keep objects away from you. During tug of war games, puppies will often growl. Growling is a dominance vocalization, designed to warn another pack member that they better not confront the growler or he will bite. Puppies see these games as situations in which they have been allowed to dominate. They do not understand that these are games designed by humans to entertain them. You can continue to play with your dog during this period, but, the relationship between you during the play must change. No mouthing of your body should be allowed and when your dog does mouth, you should respond with a quick and sharp "NO!" or "No Bite!" Play that does not get rough is best. If you cannot keep the dog from getting overly excited during a game and he persists in biting at you, don't play that way. This will only stimulate additional dominant behavior in the future. For these reasons, this is the stage when serious training should begin. Training establishes your pack leadership in a manner that your puppy will understand. By training your puppy, you will learn how to get him to respond to commands designed to show that you are in charge.

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)

This is the age when puppies become more independent of their owners and are likely to venture off on their own. Puppies that have always come when called or stayed close to their owners will now ignore them, often running in the opposite direction. [**This is also the time when a puppy with strong desire will start to want to work stock on his own. It’s not advisable to allow a puppy to work when he wants too, this teaches him he doesn’t have to listen to you]. This period can last from several weeks to months. How you handle your puppy's refusal to come or stay with you will determine whether or not he will be trustworthy off leash. It is important to emphasize here that no puppy this young should ever be off leash except in a confinement area. Therefore, keep your puppy on leash when this period arises and keep him on leash until he readily returns to you or shows no inclination to leave you. The privilege of being off leash outside of a confined area, is reserved for dogs whose owners have trained them to the point where there is no potential for them to run and fail to obey to stop or come on command. Releasing an unleashed dog in an unconfined area that is not well trained off leash is irresponsible ownership and dangerous to your dog. Even well trained dogs can make mistakes or become distracted by something in the environment so that they do not respond to their owners' commands. So, how do you respond when your puppy suddenly develops the urge to bolt? First, you must, for his safety, put a leash or a long line on your dog whenever you are not in a confined area. Second, work hard on training your puppy to come on command. Use the recall game and the spontaneous recall. When walking your dog, suddenly run backwards and encourage your puppy to come. If your dog still continues to bolt or run away, then your dog probably does not view you as the dominant figure in this relationship and you require special help to resolve this problem. Even if the your puppy appears less inclined to bolt, this does not mean that he is reliable off lead without more maturity and a lot more training.

Adolescence Period (5 - 18 months)

Adolescence can appear in smaller dogs as early as five months. In larger breeds, it can start as late as nine or ten months. In giant breeds, adolescence doesn't take place until twelve to eighteen months. In general, the larger the dog, the longer it will take to physically mature. Some breeds can remain adolescents until they are two and a half, or three years old. Adolescence is expressed in male dogs by scent marking behavior. Scent marking behavior is stimulated by the release of testosterone into the dog's system. At this time, males may become macho. Male dogs may become less friendly and even somewhat aggressive to other male dogs. He may begin lifting his leg in the house. He may become very interested in girls, tend to roam, and certainly not interested in listening to you! Some males at this age become totally unruly. In females, adolescence is marked by the onset of the heat cycle, estrus. During this three week period, your bitch could become pregnant. So, keep her away from all male dogs. Bitches exhibit erratic behavior during estrus. Some get real moody and insecure. Others become quite bold or even aggressive. Adolescence is a very difficult time for pet owners. They are surprised when their cute little puppy becomes a free and independent thinker. Adolescence is certainly a good time to start (or re-institute) rigorous training. You must work hard NOW to mold the dog of your dreams. This course will teach you training methods which are based on sound knowledge of dog behavior. You will gain knowledge about dog behavior and training techniques. This knowledge will help you to get through your dog's adolescence. A dog that you view as too stupid, too old or stubborn or too spiteful can become a well mannered, enjoyable, and reliable companion. Establish yourself as the leader of the pack. Be realistic about your expectations. You cannot expect young dogs to grow up overnight. Learn to appreciate your dog's adolescence for it is a truly wonderful time. At this time of their lives, dogs are very energetic and exuberant in their responses. They can be full of beans, but still, delightful playmates. You as the owner must learn to channel that energy and exuberance into learning, working, exercising, and playing games. It is not too late to train (or retrain) your dog to help him to become a long-lasting companion.

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)

The Second Fear Imprint Period is similar to the one that occurred during the socialization period, but, it is much less defined. It occurs as dogs enter adolescence and seems more common in males. It is often referred to as adolescent shyness. Your dog may suddenly become reluctant to approach something new or suddenly become afraid of something familiar. [**Sometimes this is the time that a dog will ‘turn-off’ of stock. Be patient, do not scold, hit or stomp at the dog for this behavior. This phase will pass]! This behavior can be very frustrating to the owner and difficult to understand because its onset is so sudden and, seemingly, unprovoked. If you notice this behavior, it is important to avoid the two extremes in response: Don't force him to do or approach something frightening to him and don't coddle or baby him. To get through situations that make your dog fearful, be patient, kind, and understanding. Desensitize him to the object or situation by gradually introducing him to it and using food rewards and praise to entice him to confront the fearful object or situation. Do not coddle or reassure him in any way that will encourage his fearful behavior. Do not correct him either. Simply make light of it and encourage him give him food rewards as he begins to deal with his fear better. Make sure you lavishly praise his attempts! This phase will pass.

Mature Adulthood (1 - 4 Years)

During this period your dog may again become aggressive and assertive. [**Most working dogs really start to work nicely at this age]. For instance, he may become more turf-protective, by barking when someone comes to the door. Temper his protective behaviors by teaching him how to accept strangers into your home. His friendly play with other dogs may escalate to fighting with other dogs. Teach you dog to ignore other dogs that he sees if he can't be friendly towards them. Take him to places where there will be a few dogs at first and train him there. Then, train him in areas with more and more dogs. Next, allow him to interact with non threatening dogs. Puppies and bitches are good choices, if he is a male. Always praise his positive efforts to interact or if he displays no reaction. Gradually move onto male dogs. At bit of caution here, adult members of the same sex, no matter what animals species, tend to compete with one another. Putting together two strange adults of the same sex could result in a fight. Watch for behavioral signs of playfulness before allowing two dogs to play together. Also, be alert to the posturing of aggressive behaviors. Watch for circling behaviors, walking on toes, stiff tail wags, and tense facial expressions. Adulthood is also a time that your dog may again test your position as pack leader. If he does, handle him firmly, suspend any rough play that may be giving him the idea that he can dominate you, and continue with training. Additional classes or private help with training may be a wise investment. It can provide you with the structure and commitment to train him that you need at this time. Proceed with training in a matter-of-fact, no nonsense manner and your dog will become a reasonably obedient dog. Give him lots of positive attention for his efforts!

Closing Remarks

This has been a cursory look at some of the behavioral changes that often occur during puppyhood, adolescence, and early adulthood. Other problems may arise at these stages which are not the result of the developmental period itself, but are caused by something in the environment or the dog's basic personality. Even so, they are probably aggravated by immaturity and you cannot afford to overlook them. Understanding, training, and perhaps professional help with training are the keys to success. All dogs are different. Some will not exhibit the behaviors we have discussed and others will pass through them at varying rates with smaller dogs maturing faster than large dogs. Remember that your dog needs you to play a role in his development and you can do that with knowledge and commitment to training. Learning plays a significant role in a dog's development. Through training, you actively take part in that process. This course has been carefully designed with the capacities of developing dogs in mind. Throughout the course, you and your dog will be observed. You will be advised if your dog exhibits behaviors which may be warning signs of potential problems. We will teach you exercises which will help your dog to be a good companion. The exercises your dog or puppy will learn should not tax him. Learning can be fun and each dog can achieve success. ~~ Sue St. Gelais

I remembered the second part of this post as an online zine article. I located it at
http://www.doberman.org/articles/puppy.htm
[Author: Sue St. Gelais]


I remember Sue St. Gelais... http://www.hundmeister.com
RR#6 Tillsonburg Ontario N4G 4G9 (519) 866-5007. She and Karl her husband are Dobermans breeders. Also members of the Canadian Kennel Club and Doberman Pinscher Club of Canada.

In another vein, here is a good webzine information resource -
http://www.workingdogs.com/articles_pups.htm

This archive includes the best of the Puppy articles featured on
Working Dogs Cyberzine since 1996.
I hope everyone here too will find it equally informative

What I believe is when we read or attempt to digest any published
information, we should always bear in mind the perspective of the author
and its intended audience.

Sue St. Gelias, a Doberman breeder wrote that article for a private
audience. This is not to fault her that she was writing with a bias
both intentional or unconscious.

With the pervasiveness of the Internet, it is even more important to
note these points:

* What perspective or background the author is writing from
* The original target audience that was being addressed

Even without attribution, this is not to say that its value is lost
because of a misconception that it is "generalized" knowledge shared
across breeds.)

Indeed a fallacy is created when a writer does not clearly indicate his
or her specific intent in the introduction. To avoid this, most good
writers simply make a clear qualification in the introduction with a
statement like "This applies to this specific breed and also does not
imply that I am the final authority in this area".

So when we offer or come across any "advise" it will bode well that we
clearly specify the boundaries. Just like the mandatory practice in
scholarly or professional publications - works must be published with
clear source references and citations.

Otherwise, we will have all manners of "debate" which will confuse
instead enlighten the reader. Take everything we read with a grain of
salt. Just because it is printed or published does NOT make it
authoritative;)

I like reading the views shared by everyone here:) Thank you!!!!

Incidentally, Check out the interesting list of banished words
Lake Superior State University selected. Words and phrases that make up
its 30th annual List of Words Banished from the Queen’s English for
mis-use, over-use and general uselessness. I suspect "googling" for
information may soon be included:)

For rationale behind the banishment of these words, click on the year of
banishment. http://www.lssu.edu/banished/complete_list.php

:icone14: KCA for allowing everyone
to share their perspectives. This is how we will learn... even if have to
fumble awkwardly in public. But make sure we each remember that we will
never be the final authority no matter how sound our current "proofs" may
be. The emphasis is on the word CURRENT.